A practical guide to autolyse, sponges (poolish, biga), tangzhong, yudane, and the traditional methods bakers have always used.

Across cultures and across centuries, bakers have always had ways of letting part of their dough rest before baking. The names change depending on where you are in the world, but the purpose is always the same: give flour and water time to soften, hydrate, and develop before the final dough is mixed.

These methods help build structure, improve texture, and deepen flavour using nothing more than flour, water, and patience.

What these methods actually do

When flour and water sit together, even for a short time, the dough begins changing on its own:

• Gluten starts forming naturally.
• The flour hydrates more fully.
• Enzymes begin breaking down starches.
• The dough softens and becomes more elastic.

This can lead to:

• A softer crumb
• Better gluten development without aggressive kneading
• More chew and less crumbliness
• Bread that stays fresh longer
• Deeper, more developed flavour

This is especially helpful when working with fresh milled flour, which benefits from extra hydration time. All of these traditional methods are simply different ways of giving dough that head start.

The Important Conversion Rule

Whatever flour and liquid you use in an autolyse, pre-ferment (poolish/biga/sponge), tangzhong, or yudane must be subtracted from the total flour and liquid in your recipe.

You’re not adding extra. You’re simply preparing part of the dough ahead of time.

Pre-ferments: Poolish, Biga, and Sponge

These three are essentially variations of the same idea. You take a portion of your flour and liquid, add a tiny bit of yeast, and let it sit ahead of time. That mixture becomes part of your final dough later.

The differences are mostly in texture and timing. And yes, shaggy is totally fine. It does not need to be smooth. It comes together as it sits.

Poolish (loose and bubbly)

A poolish is equal parts flour and water (100% hydration) with a pinch of yeast. It becomes airy and full of bubbles.

Use:

• 25–30% of your total flour
• Equal weight water
• A small pinch of yeast

Example (grams): 150 g flour + 150 g water + pinch of yeast

Example (cups, approximate): 1 cup flour + 1 cup water + pinch of yeast

Rest time: 8–16 hours (room temperature)

Why use it: flavour development, extensibility, and a lighter texture.

Biga (stiffer version)

Biga is the same concept, but lower hydration so it forms a shaggy, firm dough. It adds strength and structure.

Use:

• 25–30% of your total flour
• About 50–60% as much water as flour (by weight)
• A small pinch of yeast

Example (grams): 150 g flour + 75–90 g water + pinch of yeast

Example (cups, approximate): 1 cup flour + 1/2 cup water (plus a splash if needed) + pinch of yeast

Rest time: 8–16 hours

Why use it: stronger structure, better chew, deeper flavour.

Sponge (the flexible umbrella term)

“Sponge” is the general term many home bakers have heard most. It can be loose like a poolish or thicker like a biga, and the timing can be shorter.

Use:

• Take a portion of flour + liquid from your recipe
• Add a small amount of yeast (or starter, if you use it)
• Let it sit until it looks puffy/bubbly and smells sweet-fermented

Rest time: 2–6 hours (or overnight)

Why use it: when you want flavour + texture benefits but don’t have an overnight window.

Tangzhong and Yudane

These two methods use heat to change the flour before it goes into the dough. They’re especially helpful for soft breads, buns, sandwich loaves, and enriched doughs.

Tangzhong (cooked roux)

This is made on the stove and creates a soft paste that goes into the dough. It’s a fantastic tool when you’re short on time but still want that soft, chewy, non-crumbly texture.

Ratio (by weight): 1 part flour : 5 parts liquid

Example (grams): 20 g flour + 100 g water or milk

Example (cups, approximate): 2 Tbsp flour + 1/2 cup liquid

How: whisk together, cook gently (stirring) until it thickens into a paste, then cool until warm (not scalding) before adding to your dough.

Why use it: softness, moisture retention, better shelf life. It’s the “I’m in a pinch but I still want amazing texture” method.

Yudane (no stove version)

Yudane is similar to tangzhong, but instead of cooking, you pour boiling water over flour to gelatinize the starches.

Ratio: 1 part flour : 1 part boiling water

Example (grams): 100 g flour + 100 g boiling water

Example (cups, approximate): 1/2 cup flour + 1/2 cup boiling water

How: stir into a thick paste, cover, and let sit several hours or overnight, then add to your dough.

Why use it: soft crumb, moisture retention, and a lovely slight chew.

Autolyse

Autolyse is simply flour and water mixed together and left to rest before adding the remaining ingredients. It’s one of the most talked-about tools in fresh milled baking for good reason: it makes the dough easier to work with and improves structure without you having to knead forever.

Time options:

• 30–60 minutes for a quick improvement
• 4–12 hours for deeper hydration
• Overnight is a favourite for many bakers

If you’re going longer than about 12 hours, I suggest putting it in the fridge. Just remember: a cold autolyse will slow your final rise because you’re adding cool dough into the mix.

How I use these methods in my own bakery

Over time, I’ve learned what works well in my bakery and in my home, so this is the approach I’ve settled into. Some of it depends on what I’m making, and some of it depends on how much time I have, but the method I use most often is a simple overnight autolyse.

For almost all of the breads I make, I start the dough the night before using half of the flour and water. This has become my go-to method because it consistently gives me better structure, better texture, and a loaf that holds up well for days.

I don’t autolyse the entire dough. I’ve found that if I do, it can move too quickly and change the consistency more than I want. So instead, I work with part of the flour and let that portion hydrate really well overnight.

The easiest way to think about my basic method is this:

Take half of the flour from the recipe, and then use half of that amount in water.
That creates a simple 1:2 ratio of water to flour for the autolyse.

Example: If a recipe uses 12 cups of flour total:

• I set aside 6 cups flour
• Then I add 3 cups water

That almost always creates the perfect soft, shaggy mixture for hydrating the flour.

Pro tip: Because I’m a forgetful person and always think I’ll remember but never do, I always write on the container how much flour and water I used. That way, the next morning I can finish the recipe properly without guessing. Trust me, write it down, your future self will thank you.

Once the autolyse has rested overnight, I mix in the remaining ingredients and continue with the dough as usual.

If I’m working on a shorter timeline:
I’ll sometimes turn that same mixture of the autolyse but turn it into more of a sponge by adding a small sprinkle of yeast (or a bit of starter) and letting it sit for about four hours instead of overnight. It still gives me some of the softening and flavour benefits, just in a shorter window.

If I’m making pizza dough or bagels:
I usually mix the full dough as per the recipe, shape the dough, and then let it rest in the fridge for at least 12-24 hours. Once the yeast is added, the cold slows everything down and allows the dough to ferment gently. This builds flavour and gives a better chew.

If I’m making buns or softer breads:
This is where I love using tangzhong. It’s one of the fastest ways to create a really soft, tender texture and helps those breads stay fresh longer.

If I’m baking something to eat right away:
I don’t worry about any of this. Warm water, yeast, mix, rise, bake. Fresh bread out of the oven is always going to be warm and beautiful and lovely.

But most of the time, I’m baking ahead. I want a loaf that still tastes good two or three days later. And that’s where these methods really make a difference.

I also personally find that it helps the bread keep a little longer overall. Without it, some fresh milled breads can start to feel stale very quickly, and sometimes even go off faster than expected. Giving the dough that extra time to develop seems to help extend that window of freshness.

More than anything, I watch the dough more than the clock. Every kitchen is a little different, every batch of flour behaves a little differently, and the dough will always tell you what it needs if you pay attention.

But the thread running through all of this is simple: good bread takes time. Whether it’s an overnight autolyse, a sponge resting on the counter, or a dough slowing down in the fridge, giving it that extra space to develop almost always leads to better texture, better flavour, and bread that feels and tastes the way it should.